Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur is a modern, bustling city of more than a million people. It retains much of the character and local color that has been so effectively wiped out in other Asian-boom cities such as Singapore. It has plenty of colonial buildings in its center, a vibrant Chinatown with street vendors and night markets, and a bustling Little India. When KL does something, it likes to do it big. The twin Petronas Towers skyscrapers - the tallest building in the world - dominate the skyline, while in Merdeka Square stands a 95 m. Population:1.8 million Country: Malaysia People: 59% Malays and various indigenous groups, 32% Chinese, 9% Indian Main language: Bahasa Malay, Chinese, English, Tamil Time Zone: GMT/UTC+8 Telephone Area Code: 603

Events:

There is almost always something going on, what with so many cultures and religions in Malaysia. Visitors from Western countries will need to check the local lunar calendar for the exact dates of most events. New Year's Day, Chinese New Year, Worker's Day (May Day) and National Day (31 August) are just a few of Malaysia's mind-boggling 44 public holidays.

Orientation:

Malaysia is divided into two regions - Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur in the Selangor province falls near the west coast of the Peninsular. The traditional heart of the city is Merdeka Square. KL is a relatively easy city to navigate, with major north-south thoroughfares. Traveling around the city on foot can be a frustrating experience. Six-lane roads and overhead fly-overs divide the city with no thought to pedestrian traffic. Southeast of Merdeka Square, the banking district merges into the bustling, old China Town, where travelers can find a wealth of accommodation and restaurant options. Past the main post office is the historic KL train station, while further west is the 'green belt', housing the Lake Gardens, National Museum and Monument and the Malaysian Parliament. Along with the station, the major transport hub in KL is Puduraya bus station, on the eastern edge of the central district.

When to go:

It's hot and humid throughout Malaysia all year round. Overnight lows rarely fall below 20°C (70°F). Rainfall is variable and falls all year round. The driest months tend to be June and July.

Beaten Track:

Batu Caves The huge Batu Caves are among KL's best known tourist attractions. They form an intense backdrop to the spectacularly masochistic feats performed annually by Hindu Thaipusam devotees. The main cave, a vast open space known as the Temple Cave - is reached by a 272-step climb. Beyond the stairs is the main temple. There are several other smaller caves in the same formation. Templer Park Templer Park was established during the colonial period. The 500 hectare park is a tract of primary jungle featuring marked jungle paths, swimming lagoons and several waterfalls. Just north of the park is a 350 m limestone formation known as Bukit Takun. There is still plenty to do in KL. The large parks and gardens are apt for bird watching. The city also has many facilities for swimming. At night you hit the floor at a disco - but only till 1 am.

History:

Kuala Lumpur was formed in the late 1860s when a band of prospectors in search of tin landed at the meeting point of the Kelang and Gombak rivers. They named the place Kuala Lumpur meaning 'Muddy Convergence'. More than half of those first arrivals died of malaria and other tropical diseases, but the tin they discovered in Ampang attracted more miners. Soon KL quickly became a noisy, brawling, violent boom town. Shifting between colonial powers the whole Malaysia peninsula came under British rule in 1913, when it was known as British Malaya. The economy prospered. By the commencement of WW II, Malaya supplied nearly 40% of the world's rubber and 60% of its tin. This pre-war boom period also saw massive movements of Chinese and Indian nationals to the region. By 1931, the Chinese outnumbered the indigenous Malays. The war had a devastating effect on Malaya, which fell to the Japanese with relative ease. It took Japanese forces just a month to repel the British and move into Kuala Lumpur. When Malaya gained independence in 1957, a coalition of Malays, Indians and Chinese assumed power, although the constitution granted indigenous Malays special privileges. In 1963 Malaysia came into being, combining Malaya, Singapore, Sarawak and Sabah (Brunei pulled out at the last moment). As soon as the new nation was formed, the Philippines laid claim to Sabah, while Indonesia laid claim to the whole 'East Malaysia' region. British troops in the region took three years to quell the threat. At the same time, a dispute erupted between Singapore and Malaya over pro-Malayan policies. Singapore was kicked out of the union in 1965. Although Malaysia was by the mid-60s a politically united country, internal political and social problems continued. Despite the luxury of legal privileges, Malays had a very weak hold on Malaysia's economy. In 1969 only 1.5% of company assets in Malaysia were held by Malays, and they had a per-capita income that was less than 50% of non-Malays. Despite this, there was still much resentment directed towards the Malays, spilling over into bloody riots following the 1969 election. From then until now, successive governments have attempted to gradually legislate away inequities between races in Malaysia. Today Kuala Lumpur continues to develop on a monumental scale, however neglected infrastructure is catching up and pollution, traffic congestion and water supplies are a growing problem.

Getting There:

The international airport (KLIA) was opened in 1998 and boasts state-of-the-art facilities. Two terminals are linked by a shuttle service, and host all international arrivals and departures. Public Transport is not an easy way to travel to the airport, which is 75km south of the city center. Taxis from the airport operate on a fixed-price coupon system, available in the arrival hall. KL's main bus station is Pudu Raya Terminal, just east of Chinatown. From here buses go all over Peninsular Malaysia, including the east coast, and to Singapore and Thailand.

Getting Around:

The public transport system within KL is speedy, comfortable and uncomplicated. New expressways, a remodeled rail network and the new train station have all contributed to a reduction in traffic congestion. While buses and city trains move huge numbers of people, travelers will probably find most joy with the fast and frequent Light Rail (LRT). Taxis are a cheap alternative to the mass transport options. Drivers are sometimes unwilling to use the meters - check with locals about going rates or simply get out and hail another cab.