United Arab Emirates

Events:

Religious holidays are tied to the lunar Islamic Hejira calendar, so dates vary from year to year on the Western Gregorian version, which runs on solar time. Eid al-Fitr (the end of Ramadan), Eid al-Adha (a celebration that follows Pilgrimage), Lailat al-Mi'raj (the Ascension of the Prophet), the Prophet's Birthday and the Islamic New Year are the main celebrations. Secular holidays include New Year's Day (1 January) and National Day (2 December). Keep in mind that Thursday and Friday make up the Dubai weekend.

Currency:

UAE Dirham

Beaten Track:

Jumeira Archaeological Site The largest and perhaps most significant archaeological site in the UAE, Jumeira dates to the 6th century AD. The settlement is particularly interesting because it straddles the pre-Islamic and Islamic eras. Today surrounded by shopping centers plying the spoils of modern-day Dubai's trade, this settlement was once a caravan station along a trade route linking Iraq to northern Oman. Excavations have unearthed a series of stone walls that surrounded a seven-shop souq and a storage facility. Several homes, what is believed to be a governor's palace and several other structures that keep the archaeologists guessing can be viewed from behind a fence. Jumeira Beach Park In front of the Jumeira Beach, a walk on the grass here is a real treat. There is a children's play area, barbecue pits, picnic tables, walkways and kiosks. The long stretch of beach is clean and lined with shady palm trees. Lifeguards are on duty here. The park is usually open to all, but Saturday and Monday are reserved for women and children only. Hatta Rock Pools An enclave of Dubai nestled in the Hajar Mountains, Hatta is a great weekend getaway. The main attractions are its relatively cool, dry climate, the mountain scenery, excellent 4WD options and the magnificent Hatta rock pools. It's an amazing experience to swim through the narrow rock corridors of this miniature canyon, roaring year-round with plunging waterfalls.

History:

Archaeological finds suggest that humans have been living here since at least 3000 BC. Other evidence links the peoples of what are now the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Oman to the mysterious Bronze Age Magan civilization. Magan ships sailed to Babylonia, Mesopotamia and beyond, trading copper from Oman and pearls from the mouth of Dubai Creek with the heavyweights of the Bronze Age economy. The Magan civilization waned around 2000 BC, but Dubai's instinct for trade remained. Excavations at Jumeira, about 10km south of Dubai, recently unearthed a 6th-century AD caravan station, proving that the area's population was still keeping the trade routes well oiled. Around this same time, the Sassanids, a Persian dynasty who had inhabited the mouth of Dubai Creek since AD 224, were driven out by the Umayyads, who came to stay and brought Islam with them. Exploiting their prime location between the Mediterranean Sea and Indian Ocean, the new inhabitants, working with the old, began reestablishing old trade routes and spreading the word of Allah, all the while making folks fantastic deals for the lowest everyday prices in the Gulf. As trade began to match pearl diving's importance to the local economy, merchant dhows sailed as far as China, returning with silk and porcelain for Middle Eastern and European markets. This maritime madness reached its peak between AD 750 and 1258. Soon everyone wanted a piece of the Gulf's action. By the late 16th century the Portuguese were attempting to control local trade. Their success was such that many coastal settlements were practically abandoned, and the tribes took refuge in oases far from the coast. The British finally gained control of the region's waterways in 1766. Dubai was caught between local power struggles and the Europe's imperial dreams, but somehow turned this bad situation to its advantage, expanding its pearl trade through every channel. In 1833 a neighboring tribal power, the Bani Yas, decided that Dubai would be its new turf. Eight hundred Bani Yas moved into the Bur Dubai area under the leadership of Maktoum bin Butti, founder of the Al-Maktoum dynasty that still rules the emirate today. The region's two economic epicenters, neighboring Sharjah and Lingah in modern-day Iran, were already losing business to bustling Dubai. Sheikh Maktoum decided to capitalize on the opportunity. In 1892 he signed an exclusive business deal with the British and in 1894 permitted a full tax exemption for foreign traders. Persian merchants were the first group of expats to take advantage of the deal, but traders the world over were on the way. In 1903, when the Sheikh convinced a major British steamship line to make Dubai a port of call, a 25-year boom began. The Great Depression, compounded by the emergence of artificial pearls in 1929, cast a dark cloud over Dubai's newfound prosperity. Young Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al-Maktoum, convinced that the pearl trade was dead, decided that this cloud had a 24-karat lining. Dubai wasn't duty-free for nothing. Soon, the re-export business, whereby goods were cheaply imported into a duty-free port and immediately exported to another market, exploded. After Dubai Creek was dredged in 1963, allowing almost any boat safe harbor, gold smuggling took off like a rocket. Dubai's lucky streak had only just begun. In 1966, oil was discovered and the economy kicked into overdrive. The British had already decided to pack up the empire and head home, and in 1971, Dubai became the seventh emirate of the newly formed UAE. Sheikh Rashid agreed to a formula that gave the emirates of Abu Dhabi and Dubai the most weight in the federation, and made sure that Dubai would continue living life in the fast lane. Border disputes and friction about the integration of the Emirates led to some tension, but in 1979, Sheikh Rashid and Sheikh Zayed of Abu Dhabi sealed a compromise; in effect, Dubai would remain a bastion of free trade while Abu Dhabi imposed a tighter federal structure on the rest of the Emirates. When Sheikh Rashid, the architect of Dubai's success and unrivaled financial freedom, died in 1990, his son Sheikh Maktoum took the reins of power (but let Adam Smith's invisible hand continue to do most of the steering). The core of Maktoum's policies is economic freedom and the no-holds-barred promotion of Dubai, which makes the city a very fun place. By the mid-1990s, the Dubai Desert Classic had become a well-established stop on the Professional Golfers Association (PGA) tour. World-class tennis tournaments, boat and horse races, desert rallies and one of the largest air shows in the world attract millions of visitors to the city. Other high profile events, such as the Dubai Shopping Festival and Dubai Summer Surprises, bring hordes of tourists into town. Tourism matches trade and oil in importance to the emirate's economy.

Culture:

Dubai is relatively tolerant and relaxed, with its culture firmly rooted in Islam. Most Emiratis are Sunni Muslims, and many belong to the strict Wahhabi sect. Only about a quarter of Dubai's population is Emirati; expats from all over the world call the city home. Arabic is the official language, but English is the language of business. Hindi, Urdu, Farsi and Malayalam are also useful. There is little in the way of a national cuisine in the UAE. If you attend any of Dubai's festivals, you may be lucky enough to see traditional dances like the fast-paced liwa or the Bedouin ayyalah performed. Most Bedouin crafts are practical as well as beautiful: Pots like the birnah and hibb are designed to keep milk cool, while the mehaffa, or hand fan, does the same for you. The barjeel, a wind tower and attractive architectural element, directs the smallest breeze into the house; it's surprisingly effective air-conditioning. Almost all Emiratis wear traditional dress. Men don the ankle-length white dishdasha, topped with a white head cloth (gutra) secured by a black coil (agal). Women slip into a long, black cloak (abeyya), and sometimes a black head cloth (shayla) and/or a stiff, gold-colored mask (burqa) to cover their faces. As in any country, it's important to respect local customs. Visitors, particularly women, do well to dress modestly. It's impolite to photograph people without asking permission first. Men should refrain from shaking hands with women unless the woman puts her hand out first.

Environment:

Getting There:

Dubai International Airport (DXB) has a long-standing reputation as the Gulf's travel hub. The national carrier is Emirates, which flies to some 45 destinations in the Middle East, Europe, Australia, Africa and the Indian Subcontinent. For all the talk of free markets, airfares out of the UAE are just as strictly regulated as anywhere else. Buses run from Dubai to other parts of the UAE and surrounding countries. One useful bus route runs to Hatta from the Deira bus station. To get to most other cities in the Emirates, take a Dubai Transport minibus. Long-distance taxis can take you to any other emirate on a shared or 'engaged' basis. Settle the price before you leave. Passenger ferries make the 12-hour trip between Sharjah (a twenty-minute drive from Dubai) and the port of Bandar-a Abbas in Iran daily. There's also a fortnightly passenger service in between Dubai and Bushehr in Iran.

Getting Around:

Buses run between Dubai International Airport and Deira bus station every 15 to 20 minutes, and there are metered, beige-colored Dubai Transport taxis. Although they can't serve the airport, there are scores of private taxis in all shapes and colors. As these aren't metered, you may need to haggle a bit about fares. Local buses run from the Deira bus station, near the gold souq, and the Bur Dubai station on Al-Ghubaiba Rd. Monthly bus passes, known as taufeer, get you unlimited travel on one or the other side of Dubai Creek or, more expensively, throughout the city. Driving in the city of Dubai is considered an extreme sport, but masochists love it. If you must rent a car, bring your credit card and a copy of your passport. Drinking and driving will get you jail time on top of a stiff fine. Note that all accidents, no matter how small, must be reported to the police.